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YOGYAKARTA, Indonesia — Seventeen thousand islands — it’s impossible to grasp or,

really, understand at first. Even after two weeks in the sprawling island nation of Indonesia — skipping from island to island via slick speedboats, discount flights and sketchy water taxis (bring motion-sickness meds) — it’s a difficult statistic to put in perspective: A trip to Indonesia comes with a cultural gravity that is unique to the gentle curves of this dauntingly massive but welcoming archipelago. Languages, religions and social mores vary drastically from village to village, city to city, beach town to beach town, but they all coexist somewhat magically under Indonesia’s idealistic motto, “Bhinneka tunggal ika” — “United in diversity.” Read more:
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